The Chain Gang of Sulfur
Every day, someone in the shop asks for a low- or no-sulfur wine, often because they've heard that sulfites are the culprit behind hangovers. They believe avoiding sulfites is key to a better wine experience.
But here’s the thing: sulfur is everywhere—it's in the food and drinks we consume, the air we breathe, and even the clothes we wear. So, sulfites in wine are unlikely to be the sole offenders. In fact, products like dried apricots, commercial orange juice (think Tropicana), and frozen french fries contain far more sulfites than most wines.
So, why sulfur in wine? It’s a preservative that helps maintain freshness. In small doses, it's generally harmless. As Dana Nigro explains, "Sulfur, a naturally occurring element, is allowed in organic vineyards as a non-toxic fungicide. Added during wine production, sulfur dioxide protects against oxidation and microbes, keeping wine stable and free of flaws during shipping and storage. While some producers make wines with no added sulfites, most winemakers believe a small amount is necessary for quality wine."
Sulfur can be added at several stages of winemaking—not just at bottling. It’s used in the vineyard to protect against rot, applied during harvest, and again in the winery when the grapes are crushed and the wine is in tank. Some wines may receive another dose at bottling. Many of us feel that excessive use of sulfur prevents wines from developing their full potential and limits their ability to age.
For those seeking wines with minimal sulfur, look for bottles with under 70 ppm (parts per million) of SO2, ideally I’ve found 20-40ppm seems to be even better. With no added yeasts or enzymes, and perhaps a slight addition of sulfur at bottling to make sure that the wine tastes clean and delicious once its shipped halfway around the world, you should be completely fine. RAW WINE’s list of producers (pre-2020) is a great resource for artisanal wines made with respect for nature and minimal intervention.
If you're in New York, here are a few fantastic local wine shops to support, there is nothing better than establishing a relationship with staff at a genuine and caring retailer:
Dandelion Wine, Greenpoint, BK
Leon & Son Wine & Spirits, Brooklyn
Simple Syrup, Brooklyn
The Wine Hut, Downtown Manhattan
Upstream Wine & Spirits, Livingston Manor
Vanderbilt Wine Merchants, Brooklyn
Dépanneur Wines, Williamsburg
