The Timeless Tradition of Spanish Wine Cellaring
One of the most distinctive aspects of Spain’s wine culture is its historic approach to aging and cellaring wines. For centuries, many Bodegas—especially in Rioja—have adhered to the practice of holding back their wines until they are fully ready to drink. Unlike the modern trend of releasing wines as soon as possible, Spanish producers often chose to cellar their wines for years, ensuring that they were perfectly aged before hitting the market. This labor-intensive process required vast underground storage spaces and tied up cash flow, as producers held onto inventory, much like a patient keeper of a treasure.
It’s a curious tradition, especially in today’s fast-paced wine world, where immediacy often reigns. But it’s precisely this long-term commitment to quality and patience that sets Spain apart—and makes its wines all the more special.
In 2018, I stumbled upon a rare gem straight from a private cellar outside of Madrid. A gentleman, a true gourmand and bon vivant, had quietly amassed an impressive collection of Rioja over decades. He would purchase cases upon release and store them in his underground cellar, keeping his treasures hidden from the public eye. When he passed away a year or so ago, his sons inherited a remarkable collection—one that they’ve begun to sell off in small quantities.
These wines, which had only been moved twice—from the bodega to the cellar, then from the cellar to NYC—are in impeccable condition. For aficionados of aged wines, this is a treasure trove of Rioja from the late 50s through the 80s, a period when winemaking rules and labeling were very different, especially in Rioja.
Back then, the term "Crianza" was often used on wines that were aged longer than required, but labeling them this way allowed producers to pay less in taxes. So, while this Crianza may technically have been aged far beyond its classification, the bottle’s true character is something to behold. The blend is likely a mix of Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo—a combination that gives it depth and complexity.
Aged Rioja has a way of evolving gracefully, and this bottle is a prime example. The color is a deep crimson-garnet, with clarity at the rim, showcasing its maturity. The nose is enchanting—ripe, sweet fruit mingles with dried flowers and the earthy richness of cigar box, offering a bouquet that’s both refined and evocative. It’s a reminder that like us, wine grows into itself over time—becoming leaner and more defined as it matures.
Berberana Carta De Oro 1966
On the palate, the wine is delicate yet lively. Its acidity remains fresh, with soft, silky red fruit and tannins that have mellowed beautifully with age. For those who appreciate older wines, this Rioja is a sheer pleasure—vibrant, yet gentle. The body, at the time of tasting (2018), is a smooth, medium-weight, offering just enough substance without overwhelming the senses.
Given the delicate nature of these older bottles, I recommend using a Durand key to open it carefully, as the corks can be fragile at this stage. After tasting several bottles from this collection, I’m thrilled with how harmoniously they’ve aged. They’re in perfect balance, with no one element overpowering the others—truly a rare and special wine from a bygone era.
Pairing this wine calls for something equally refined. A filet mignon with a delicate béarnaise sauce would complement its complexity beautifully, but really, it’s the kind of wine you could enjoy over a quiet evening with a close friend—food can wait. Perhaps a roasted pheasant, or even a simple conversation, would be just the right setting to savor every last drop.
CVNE Monopole Blanco 1981 – A Rare Gem from Rioja
The CVNE Monopole Blanco 1981 is a remarkable and rare bottle that showcases the best of Rioja’s past. Crafted primarily from Viura, with a unique touch of Manzanilla from Jerez, this wine is a fascinating anomaly. Such a blend, once classic, has become virtually unheard of today, making this bottle all the more special.
The wine presents a delicate pale golden hue, and the aromas are a refined medley of crisp apple, ripe pear, and subtle ground almonds. On the palate, it’s strikingly vibrant, with a surprisingly high level of acidity that gives it an almost youthful energy. Despite its age, it feels fresh and alive, a testament to the skillful winemaking at CVNE, one of the most esteemed producers in Rioja Alta.
This wine offers a rare glimpse into the history of Rioja Blanco, a true treasure that brings the past into the present. Its complexity and length on the finish make it an ideal match for dishes like seared scallops or omakase sushi—foods that will complement its depth and nuance.
Serve chilled, but not too cold, to fully appreciate the layers of this exceptional wine. A true treat for connoisseurs and a reminder of why Rioja’s heritage continues to captivate.
