Library Wine
One of the many things that makes Spain so unique in the wine world is the historic cellaring practices. Many Bodegas, especially in Rioja, would hold back their wines until they were ready to drink; never releasing wine that was too young. When you think of this practice, it is labor-intensive, dependent upon large underground storage space, and literally halts cashflow as you are sitting on your inventory like a patient mother hen. But in many zany ways Spain makes no sense, and we are better for it.
In 2018 I found the holy grail straight from a private cellar, virtually untouched, outside of Madrid. There was a gentleman who owned a restaurant and was a bit of a bon vivant/gourmand. He excessively collected cases of Rioja upon release and slipped them quietly into his underground cellar for decades. Most people had no idea he was even amassing such a collection!
He passed away a year or so ago, leaving his goldmine in the hands of his sons. There is more wine than time to drink it, so they have been selling off small quantities of their father’s stock. Moved only once from the bodega to the cellar and then a second time to NYC, these bottles are in impeccable condition. If you’re a fan of aged wine – the great old Barolos, Burgundies, and Bordeaux then this is a virtual candy shop of treasures. The prices are also fantastic, for the amount of age and condition the bottles are in.
The wines I purchased were from the late 50s – 80s, a time when labeling and rules were a little different, especially in Rioja. You will not find the same designations as in modern times. Although bottles were commonly aged in barrel beyond the level of a Gran Reserva in the past, by labeling it a ‘Crianza’ meant you paid less in taxes to the government.
Berberana Carta De Oro 1966
Researching blends is difficult for wines of this era, though it appears likely that this Crianza has some Garnacha and Mazuelo in addition to being predominantly Tempranillo. As with aged wine, this is crimson-garnet with clarity at the rim. The nose is that perfect combination of sweet mature fruit, dried flowers (petals) and cigar box. Much like us as we age into maturity, we begin flesh out and become lean. The body on this bottle is a gentle medium (as of 2018). With a gorgeous nose like old Burgundy, this aged Rioja is rare treasure from the cellar.
This wine is very much alive, with lively acidity and delicate, silky red fruit. The tannins have softly matured. A sheer pleasure for those who enjoy older wines. Of course, I’d recommend using a Durand key to open this with care, as all corks are delicate at this point in life. After tasting through several bottles of the gem, I am very happy with the harmony showing here.
A special dinner of Filet Mignon in delicate béarnaise sauce sounds like something to be eating with this wine. But it would also be lovely to drink a bottle with a close friend and think about food later. Perhaps roasted pheasant…
CVNE Cune Monopole, Rioja Blanco, 1981 (375ml)
This is a crazy bottle of Rioja Blanco, made of mostly Viura with a fantastic addition of Manzanilla from Jerez. Yes, you read that right. CVNE is one of the top Bodegas in Rioja Alta, and this style of wine, as classic as it was, is almost unheard of nowadays. Color is light pale golden with aromas of apple, pear, and ground almonds. Remarkably it has a serious amount of acidity, and drinks rather youthful and vibrant.
A true treat from the past – history in a small bottle – that would be great with seared scallops or omakase sushi because of the complexity and length on the finish. Serve chilled, but not too cold, to capture the nuances here in this special wine.
